CANAL BRIDGES
The stationary bridges along the D&R Canal today are very unlike the original structures that spanned this transportation corridor when it was used for boat traffic. Unlike Pennsylvania’s Delaware Division Canal, all the bridges crossing the D&R Canal were initially movable and gave the canal an advantage - no height restriction. Low profile mule-drawn canal boats, heavily built steam powered vessels, elegant tall-masted ships, and personal yachts were all able to navigate the corridor.
The first bridges along the D&R were A-framed swing bridges. The support for this simple, well designed timber bridge was built in the form of the letter “A” giving the bridge its name. From the peak of the “A” support beams, cables were strung downward and anchored to the bridge’s deck; a span that reached over 68 feet in length. Horse, wagon, carriage and pedestrian traffic crossed the canal when in the closed position.
A bridge tender, employed by the canal company, was responsible for a crossing location where he operated the swing bridge by hand with the aid of a bridge key or wrench using a system of gears and cranks similar to the lift locks. The tender monitored the tension in the supporting suspension cables to keep the bridge in good working order by regularly climbing the attached ladder to the apex of the “A” where he could inspect and tighten the cables as needed. Each tender was provided with a house which was located adjacent to the assigned bridge. The housing was part of the tender’s salary.
Adjacent to each bridge crossing was a small wood framed structure large enough to accommodate a few items such as a chair, table, lamp, and small stove. This bridge tender station allowed the tenders some comfort as they waited for the sound of a boat horn or the blow of the conch shell that signaled the approach of an oncoming vessel. When heard, preparation to open the bridge began. A barricade halted the road traffic before the bridge gears put the well-balanced deck in motion. Slowly the long deck swung low across the waterway to the open position parallel to the side of the canal and cleared the path for the oncoming boat traffic to proceed. Once through, the deck swung back across the canal into the closed position and road traffic resumed.
The A-framed swing bridge served the D&R Canal well for over 80 years before being replaced in the early part of the 20th century with the stouter kingpost style swing bridge better suited to handle the weight of the automobile. As the new horseless carriages arrived and gained popularity in the 19-teens, the need to retire the A-frames grew more pressing. By the 1920s, all the A-frames were replaced by the more practical King-Post swing bridges. Although the D&R Canal closed as a transportation corridor in 1932, these second generation swing bridges remained a fixture along the canal until they were removed and replaced in the early 1950s by the stationary bridges you see today.
Griggstown
Native Peoples
Before European settlers arrived in Mattawang (Millstone) Valley in the late 17th century, the Lenape Indians fished the Millstone River, hunted game in its woodlands, and cleared plots of land where they cultivated corn, beans, squash and tobacco just as they did in all areas of what would become New Jersey and it's neighboring states. The many projectile points and other Indian artifacts that have been discovered over the years reveal that several Lenape villages dotted the landscape of present-day Griggstown. Click below to learn more about the native peoples who made their homes in the broader area that would would become New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware and New York for thousands of years before European settlement.
The Encylopedia of Greater Philadelphia: Native Peoples to 1680
The Lenape: The Early Settlers of the Millstone Valley
The Native American Language Organization: Delaware/Lenape Culture and History
European Settlement
Initial European settlement of the region occurred early because of two key factors, inherent soil fertility and location on a navigable waterway. The Millstone River gave Griggstown’s early colonists access to a transportation and trade route, while also providing a water source for the powering of mills and other early industries.
Most of these early settlers were Dutch as evidenced by 18th century tax records for the township of Franklin. The 1735 tax list reveals that over 120 of the 125 names were of Dutch derivation. These include many of Griggstown’s earliest residents, such the Veghtes, Hoaglands, Van Dorens, Beekmans and Van Dykes.
Documentation of slaveholding in Griggstown also appears in both early tax records and probate records. The inventories of Garret Veghte (grandson of Garret, the original purchaser), Abraham Van Doren, and the Veghte family for example, list slaves among their other assets.
Sometime between 1681 and 1700, Garret Claus Veghte purchased a tract of 1100 acres of land on the east side of the Millstone River which included the area now known as Griggstown. Although Veghte himself did not settle here, by the early 1700s, his grandson, also Garret Veghte, built a house at the intersection of present-day Canal and Butler roads. This house still stands today.
Benjamin Griggs, for whom Griggstown was named, arrived in the area around 1727 with his three brothers - Daniel, Samuel and Thomas. Sometime before 1733, Benjamin built a gristmill on the Millstone River about ½ mile south of the present-day Griggstown Causeway. Griggs sold the mill to Nicholas Veghte in 1752 and by 1770, it was owned by Abraham Van Doren.
Early Roads & Transportation Links
Historically, Griggstown has not had clearly defined boundaries. Early maps show a cluster of buildings along present-day Canal Road just south of the Griggstown Causeway, which represent the center of Griggstown. However, references to Griggstown in early deeds and other historic records suggest that Griggstown was generally considered to be anywhere within a 2 mile radius of the causeway.
Roads and bridges in the area were established early and provided connecting routes for farms and links with mills that had been established along the Millstone River. According to the early 18th century records of the Somerset County Justices and Freeholders, the Griggstown Road (present-day Canal Road) was laid out in 1744 “beginning at ye main road at Rocky Hill to New Brunswick, and passing Griggstown Mill over the Millstone River at Christopher Hoagland’s...”. During the 18th century, the river crossing, which was in place by 1740, was situated south of the present bridge on the Griggstown Causeway. Also known as the “Four Rod Road”, (this being the standard width of a right-of-way), the Griggstown Road would later become the route followed by the British in their retreat after the Battle of Princeton.
Griggstown’s location near a bridge crossing and along an important transportation route led to the establishment of two inns. The Louis-Alexandre Berthier Map of 1781 shows 13 structures in Griggstown including two taverns, the Black Horse Tavern (also known as Skillman’s Tavern) and the Red Horse Tavern, both situated near the intersection of the Griggstown Canal Road and old bridge crossing. The Marquis de Chastellux, who visited the Black Horse Tavern in 1780, described it as “an indifferent inn, in “Greeg Town”.
Agriculture & Industry in the 18th Century
Agriculture was the primary economic pursuit in Griggstown and Franklin Township. The 1735 tax list reveals that in addition to raising livestock, farmers grew wheat and other grains such as rye and buckwheat, which were then ground into flour by local gristmills. A total of 1206 cattle and 592 sheep grazed in Griggstown and the surrounding area that year.
By 1776, in addition to Griggstown’s mill, several other gristmills were in operation in Rocky Hill, Blackwells’ Mills, and Weston. In fact, the movement of wheat and other products to and from these mills stimulated the growth of settlements like Griggstown along the Millstone River and eventually earned the region its reputation as the “breadbasket of the Revolution”.
Richard Stevens opened a copper mine at Rocky Hill in 1748. The mine was excavated by Welsh miners who lived on the property, which was located about one mile south of the causeway and one-half mile east of the Millstone River just below the crest of Ten Mile Run Mountain. Stevens also owned a stamping mill in the vicinity.
The remains of the old mine, mining machinery and an 18th century house occupied by the miners are now part of the privately-owned Copper Mine Farm on Canal Road. In 1752, John Stevens of New York conveyed the mine property with its mines, minerals and ores to William Oppie, one of Griggstown’s earliest settlers. The sale included an access road for the “liberty and license of digging and carrying away minerals for getting timber for the mines and works.”
By 1755 the mine was considered highly productive with 220 casks of copper ore having been shipped to England that year. Benjamin Franklin visited the copper mine in 1770 and George Washington made a visit during the Revolutionary war in 1777 to inspect the machinery. Shortly after, concerns about the loyalty of the Welsh miners prompted Washington to send them to England in exchange for American prisoners held by the British. After 1777, the mine remained closed until 1840 when an unsuccessful effort was made to extract ore from it. In 1901 and 1905 two more failed attempts were made to revive the mine before it was abandoned permanently.
The Revolutionary War Period
According to a local historian, by the time of the American Revolution, Griggstown might have had a store, a flouring mill, a saw mill, a carding mill and power loom, a cider mill and distillery, a cooperage, a coach and wagon shop, two blacksmith shops, a lath mill, and a church in addition to the two taverns and the gristmill.
Although no battles or skirmishes took place in the area, both American and British troops marched through Griggstown along present-day Canal Road several times during the Revolutionary War. After the Battle of Princeton in1777, George Washington and his troops stopped at the Abraham Van Doren House in nearby Blackwell’s Mills for food and clothing while marching to their winter headquarters in Morristown.
Many of Griggstown’s residents fought in the Revolutionary War, but the most well-known is John Honeyman, whose house still stands at the intersection of Canal and Bunker Hill roads. Honeyman was secretly employed as a spy for George Washington and is credited with supplying Washington with valuable information that helped defeat the British at the Battle of Trenton.
Honeyman gathered such information while posing as a butcher selling cattle to the British troops, a practice that raised suspicion among Griggstown residents who considered him to be a traitor. One night a group of neighbors who mistakenly believed Honeyman to be at home, arrived at his house to “burn him out”. After Mrs. Honeyman presented the mob with a letter from George Washington protecting her and her family, the mob dispersed.
After the war, Washington visited John Honeyman in Griggstown to dispel any residual mistrust of Honeyman. However, these efforts may not have been entirely convincing, because Honeyman eventually left Griggstown with his family to reside in Lamington, New Jersey where he remained until his death.
Griggstown & The Delaware & Raritan Canal
The opening of the Delaware & Raritan Canal in 1834 marked a significant event in the history of Griggstown. Dug by local and immigrant workers, the canal created a transportation link between New York and Philadelphia opening up interior regions to a wider market and allowed easier, more efficient movement of goods and produce. For the first time, bulk transport of anthracite coal from Pennsylvania to eastern markets was possible.
The presence of the Delaware & Raritan Canal brought change and encouraged the growth of small commercial centers like the one at Griggstown. Benjamin Griggs’ original gristmill was removed in 1831 to make way for the construction of the canal and a new mill was constructed on the west side of the canal adjacent to the causeway. Farmers who sold land for the construction of the canal used the income to further improve their farms. By 1850 agricultural production in Griggstown was diverse and most farms were about 100 acres in size. The agricultural census records for that year list crops grown as wheat, corn, oats, peas, beans, barley, potatoes, and buckwheat, while livestock raised included cattle, milk cows, swine, and sheep.
Two Somerset County maps from 1850 and 1873 illustrate further the direct effect of the canal’s presence on the development of Griggstown, especially at the town center, situated at the intersection of the Griggstown Causeway and Canal Road. The bridge tender and his family lived in a house built and owned by the canal company as part of his salary. A store and post office were located in the Longhouse.
Another store was located on the east side of Canal Road at the intersection of the causeway and was operated by William and Caroline Oppie for over 50 years until it burned early in the 1900s. Oppie also ran a lumber business in a structure on the southwest corner of Canal Road and the Griggstown Causeway. This building, which was later destroyed by fire, was located on the grassy lot next to the extant Sherman House.
Griggstown’s expansion during the first half of the 19th century is reflected also in the increase in building. About one-third (23) of the 68 structures in the present-day Griggstown Historic District were constructed during the period 1835-1850.
With an increase in the town’s population and prosperity, the Griggstown Dutch Reformed Church was built in 1842. It was situated just north of the causeway on Canal Road. Behind the church sits the schoolhouse. It originally stood along Canal Road, but was moved to its present location and restored by the Griggstown Historical Society.
The Griggstown Bridge Tender's House
The bridge tender house at the Griggstown Causeway is one among many that were built during the canal’s construction. The first phase of canal house construction occurred during the latter half of the canal’s “official” build period in 1833-34. When the canal opened in June of 1834 only 12 houses were completed. By 1839, 33 houses were on the rolls – 14 lock houses and 19 bridge houses. Eventually the D&R Canal house inventory would come to a count of 67 (road/farm bridge and lock houses) along its 66 mile length. Today only 18 houses survive.
The typical canal house on the D&R Canal was a small, two-story vernacular structure typical of modest homes in New Jersey in the first half of 19th century. At first, these houses were plain and painted white. In the later 19th century, doors and window frames on some were painted a darker color, and porches, shutters, decorative brackets and corbels were introduced. Most of the decorative elements used were of the same size and design, indicating they were probably standard Canal Company additions. While most of the houses started out as cookie cutter models, each house eventually developed its own peculiar individuality, from its setting, additions, and the changes made by successive occupants.
The majority of the houses were of two basic styles – stone and clapboard. The canal house at Griggstown is of stone construction much like those built in other flood prone locations such as Kingston, Rocky Hill, Blackwells Mills, East Millstone, Weston, Zarephath South Bound Brook and Bogan’s Lane near New Brunswick. Many of these still stand. They varied somewhat in layout and size but these were, generally speaking, two-story with a gable roof, stuccoed stone exteriors with two end chimneys. Most, though not all, had a center door on their façade and a second door on the side and/or rear as is the case at Griggstown. Often there were roofs or porticos over doors and/or porches which were added later. The interior plans consisted of a simple layout with four rooms (2-over-2 with enclosed center stairway) and many had lean-to kitchen additions added towards the end of the 19th century. Interestingly, the Griggstown bridge tender house never included the additional lean-to kitchen found on many of the surviving canal houses. Lock houses were generally larger with more substantial additions.
When the canal officially opened in the summer of 1834 the bridge tender assigned to Griggstown was Hugh Blaney, an Irish immigrant who was born in Ireland in 1793. He is listed in the 1840 census with his wife Elizabeth Perrine (born in Somerset County, NJ sometime between 1809 – 1811)) and five children under the age of 15 (Daniel, Hugh, Charles, Catherine and John). Hugh and Elizabeth would have two more children, Mary (b. 1843) and William James (b. 1852) before he passed in 1853. By the time of his death his two eldest sons, Daniel and Charles were 23 and 19 years old (Hugh has disappeared from the area census) and likely assisted their mother with the bridge tending duties for a time. Neither the 1860 or 70 census specifically assigned the occupation “bridge tender” to anyone in Griggstown but Daniel Blaney still resided in town with his large family and was listed as a “laborer” and “farm laborer” as does Elizabeth Blaney. Elizabeth passed sometime in the 1870s. While it is not clear if she and/or her children tended the bridge and lived in the house until her passing, it is clear that by 1880 Daniel Blaney is officially listed in the census as “bridge tender.” His death in 1887 seemingly marked the end of the Blaney bridge tender legacy in Griggstown although it is possible that another family member took on the post for a time after his passing.
Unfortunately, the records for the 1890 federal census were lost so we don’t pick up the trail for the occupancy of the bridge tender house again until the next available census in 1900. By the turn of the 20th century the Slover family began its legacy of Canal Company employment in Griggstown. Both the 1900 and 1910 census indicate that Aaron Slover was stationed at the bridge tender’s house while Enoch Slover (Aaron’s father) and John Buchanan held the post at the Griggstown lock (lock 9) in 1910. By 1920 and 30 Aaron had taken over the duties at the lock. The 1930 census lists Frank Carr as bridge tender in Griggstown and Sandor Fekete as “gate tender.” It is suspected that Mr. Carr (a single man from France) was perhaps working the bridge at the lock along with Mr. Slover as it is clear from the census that Sandor Fekete was living in the bridge tender house on the Causeway. However, by the time the canal closed in 1932 Harold “Happy” Slover was tending the bridge in Griggstown while Sandor had moved his family to Blackwells Mills.
Click here to learn more about all the D&R Canal's bridge and lock houses.
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Click here to download/print the Griggstown Bridge Tender's House Interpretive Gardens brochure.
The Railroad Arrives
The opening of the canal was soon followed by the construction of the Camden and Amboy Railroad, which provided further impetus for industrial growth in the area. The railroad allowed goods to be transported even faster than by road or canal.
A railroad spur built along the canal near Rocky Hill, provided the Atlantic Terra Cotta Company, situated on the southern portion of Canal Road approximately 3 miles from Griggstown, a faster way to deliver its products to urban markets.
This factory later manufactured architectural terra cotta for numerous commercial and office buildings, including Carnegie Hall and the Woolworth Building in New York and the Government Printing Office in Washington, D.C.
Dawn of a New Era
Griggstown remained virtually unchanged from the late 19th century until after World War I when in 1926 a group of Norwegians purchased a tract of land for a settlement of summer homes they called Norseville. This was followed by two other Scandinavian settlements, Acken Park and Sunset Hill, situated to the east of Norseville. These summer bungalows were converted to year-round residences after World War II.
From the 1940s to the 1970s some newer houses were built along Canal Road. A few small developments were also built on parcels of land east of Canal Road between Bunker Hill Road and the causeway. In 1983, Griggstown was placed on the National Register of Historic Places as a historic district.
Griggstown Mill/Mule Tender’s Barracks
The story of the Griggstown Muletender’s Barracks, or Longhouse, still remains – at least in part – a mystery. While Dan Saunders, former Executive Director of the State Historic Preservation Office, dated it as an early 19th century structure based on its clues from its construction, documentation dating its actual erection has not yet been located. According to the deed chronology, the property on which the building stands was acquired by Abraham Veghte in 1848 or 1852. The Veghte family was one among many Dutch farm families that migrated to the Griggstown area, and Somerset County in general, from the colony of New York in the 18th century. The Veghtes (or Van Veghten) thus established their presence in Griggstown almost a century previous to the construction of the Delaware and Raritan Canal. Nicholas Van Veghten, Abram’s grandfather, purchased the first mill in Griggstown from Barnet Griggs (Benjamin Griggs’ son) in the 18th century. He owned and operated the original “Griggs Mill” until his death when it was then sold again to Abraham Van Doren.
It is suspected that the Longhouse has an 1830s construction date. If that is the case then it must be concluded that it was part of the original tract owned by the Simonson family (another Griggstown family of Dutch ancestry) when Abram Veghte acquired it. Simonson’s house was located (and still stands) on east side of Canal Road just south of the church; his barns and fields could likely have been located across the road. Thus, it is possible that the Longhouse was originally built as a barn by the Simonson family and was later expanded and/or converted into a mill store and grain storage facility by A. Veghte when it was purchased in 1848/1852. A photograph of a similar New Jersey structure was located in the Images of America series book Somerset County: Crossroads of the American Revolution. The photograph is described as a “grain barn built in 1768 to store grain for the Van Dorn mill.” This is a significant clue as to the possible use of the Griggstown Longhouse. Its construction and style are almost identical, it is also a Somerset County building and linked to a family with Dutch ancestry. Thus it is fair to surmise that Veghte erected the structure to serve as an additional storage facility and store for his newly constructed Mill complex across the road. It has also been suggested that the building was originally constructed to house 18th century mill workers and/or serve as storage for the first Griggstown Mill. This theory, like many others, has not been substantiated and remains somewhat doubtful since the original Griggs Mill was located some distance from the Longhouse property. Additionally, the property was owned by Cornelius Simonson who did not have a connection to the first mill. Thus, while the chronology of property ownership has been revealed, the building’s origin and original purpose are still to be determined.
Various sources confirm the Veghte family’s ownership of the building in the 19th century and that it functioned – at least in part – as a store. The building appears on the Otley map of 1850 and the Beers map of 1873. The Otley map labels it as A. Veghte while the Beers map indicates “Mrs. T. Edgar; Store & P.O.” When Abram Veghte died in 1865 he left his daughter Ann Veghte Edgar approximately 14 acres of land which included the “mill, store, basin and dwelling house” as well as an additional 5 acres of woodland. William Oppie, a local Griggstown store owner, is mentioned in the inventory taken upon Abram Veghte’s death. Oppie and Company owed $275 for ¼ rent of the mill, $32 for ¼ rent of the store and $275 for wheat. This confirms Oppie’s involvement in the Griggstown mill and store at least prior to A. Veghte’s passing. Ann Veghte Edgar and her husband owned the property and business (including the mill) from 1865 until 1885 when it was then sold to their brother-in-law, John DeWitt Boice. Unfortunately, in 1887 the National Bank of New Jersey took ownership of the property due to a default on an outstanding bank loan. Perhaps this was an indication of the declining profitability of the mill in Griggstown or simply poor management on the part of the Edgars. In any case it was back in Veghte hands by 1901 as Charles Hoagland, Abram’s grandson, took back ownership from the bank. According to Terhune, Harvey Boice, grandson of A. Veghte and C. Hoagland’s cousin, was not only a farmer but also operated the mill, owned a store on the east side of Canal Road at head of the Causeway and ran a door-to-door butcher business in 1905. In 1911, Charles Hoagland bought out his cousin Harry Edgar’s interest in the mill and Longhouse property. Soon after, or perhaps prior to, he had the mill dismantled leaving only its foundations. By the late 20s Charles was ready to relinquish his ownership of the Causeway properties. Presumably, it was at this time that the Longhouse and the Mill properties were split and sold to different owners. In 1927 the Longhouse was sold to Benjamin and Fanny Feyl (possible family members). It remained in the Feyl family until 1937 and then was passed on three more times for a mere dollar until it became the property of Virginia Skillman in 1960 where it remained until it was sold to the State of New Jersey in the 1970s. In the 1950’s the Fairweather house was built directly on the foundation of the old Veghte mill.
Today, the Longhouse building is referred to as “The Mule Tender’s Barracks.” This too, is a mystery. In 1976, local historian Laura Terhune published Episodes in the History of Griggstown. In it the building is never described as the “Mule Tender’s Barracks”. Evidence has not yet been revealed to substantiate claims that it functioned specifically as a “boarding house” for Mule Tenders or canal workers. Thus, it begs the question: Is it possible that this was an invention to justify the significance of the building and its connection to the D&R Canal in order to give good reason for its purchase by the State in 1970s? According to Terhune, the Rightmires (a local Griggstown family) did offer mules for hire presumably around turn of 20th century. These could have been used both for local traffic as well as along the canal. However, major mule concessions/barns were located at Bordentown, Kingston, and New Brunswick which were owned and operated by a single proprietor. Of these, the closest mule barns were located at Kingston. Logically, those who tended the mules would not travel by foot from Kingston to retire for the night. In fact, many canal boatmen and crew remained on their boats for the night.
It is clear that the Longhouse was divided into several attached dwellings, or apartments, at some point in its history. Prior to its most current restoration, the interior layout suggested three separate sections or units each with its own fireplace. These units were, according to census data and local history, rented. This was likely an early 20th century renovation to the building completed in order to adapt it for another use. While the possibility exists that it served as a type of dormitory or “barracks” for mill hands and their families or canal workers, documentation has not surfaced to support or deny this claim. Thus, it will be necessary to conduct further research to uncover any existing manuscripts, diaries, letters or news items that mention the Mill and/or Longhouse and their purpose.
While it is clear that much remains in question regarding the history and function of the building, it is evident that it is a significant canal era structure and worthy of restoration, interpretation and further investigation. Indeed, it is a prominent player in the Griggstown story and a significant fixture on the Causeway.
THE STORY OF PORT MERCER
What's In A Name?
This small hamlet, located in Lawrence Township, developed after the opening of the Delaware and Raritan Canal in 1834. Prior to the canal’s construction, the majority of settlement in this area of the township consisted of farmland that was further east and clustered at Clarksville along the Trenton-New Brunswick Turnpike or “Brunswick Pike” (Route 1 today). Families such as Clark, Gordon, Applegate, Phillips, Arrowsmith and Forman owned homes and farms in close proximity to the Brunswick Pike. The opening of the canal nearby presented an alternative transportation connection and an economic opportunity; it wasn’t long before Alfred Applegate opened a store at the current bridge crossing across from the new canal bridge house (later owners would be John A. Crater and Charles Mather). By the 1850s this small canal hamlet boasted a cluster of homes, a store, post office, inn, steam-powered saw mill, coal yard and a turning / delivery basin,.
It was the basin that inspired the name “Port Mercer.” This loading / delivery area provided a direct transportation and commodity connection to larger markets at Trenton and New Brunswick and, by extension, Philadelphia and New York City as if it were a bustling seaport servicing a large metropolis. Although modest in size, it did provide a location for the delivery of coal, stone lime, wood and manufactured goods of all kinds to the small cluster of residents, nearby Clarksville and the adjacent communities and farms. In the 1981 edition of the Princeton Recollector George Arrowsmith, son of the last bridge tender at Port Mercer, recalled deliveries to the basin:
There was a lot of activity…all day long, sometimes. The boats used to have a place down on that road as you go parallel to the canal. They had this big pole up with a big boom on; used to go out and lower the bucket into the boat and taken the line out and pile it up in a pile there. I guess it was all stone lime, them days. And then the farmers would come there with their wagons and load up the lime. At Mather’s, coal boats used to unload there. People would come there to get their winter coal.”
Perhaps more important, the basin also offered a waterway connection to ship local produce, grains and even livestock from the thriving local farms and hinterland. In this way it was, for all intents and purposes, “a port” for the hamlet and nearby farms. The small village took the name “Port Mercer” after the fallen Revolutionary War hero General Hugh Mercer who died from wounds sustained at the Battle of Princeton a few miles north along the Princeton Pike.
As the traffic on the canal increased so too did commerce and activity around and south of the Port Mercer basin with the addition of a coal yard, saw mill, lime kiln and mule barn. But as traffic along the canal waned late in the 19th century into the 20th, so too did this buzz of economic activity and the livelihoods that accompanied it. The canal finally closed in 1932 and the store by the canal – established over 100 years earlier – was torn down in the 1940s. The Inn next door, which once accommodated and serviced canal workers and travelers, had long since been converted to a residence by Richard Cook in the 19th century. Today with only a small cluster of historic homes surviving, there is little indication of the commercial activity that once took place here. Only the name – Port Mercer – hints at that story.
A Swing Bridge and House at Port Mercer
As was the case for all roads intersecting with the new canal, a swing bridge was needed to carry the roadway over the new waterway. Such was the case where the construction of the canal intersected with Provinceline Road at what would become Port Mercer in Lawrence & West Windsor Townships. A bridge house was constructed in 1833-34 for the original alignment of the road but then abandoned only a few years later in the early 1840s when the road was altered. A second bridge house – the one that survives at the location today – was built to accommodate the new crossing. In the early 1980s longtime resident Lee Marchesi recalled hearing older area residents talk of another bridge house that stood on the dirt road along the berm side of the canal south of the current house. Indeed, a second structure appears on the 1875 Everts and Stewart map of Mercer County south of the “Bridge House” and labeled as “Canal Co.” lending some validation to the story. If it was the first bridge house, it evidently survived at that location through much of the 19th century and was remembered by residents in the early 20th century. Although its use remains unclear, locals referred to it as “the spring house.” By the 20th century the structure likely fell into disrepair and was eventually removed.
Standard canal houses – both lock and bridge houses – on the D&R Canal were small, two-story structures typical of modest homes in New Jersey in the first half of 19th century. Initially these houses were simple, unadorned and painted white. By the latter half of the 19th century, doors and window frames on some were given a darker color, and porches, shutters and decorative brackets were introduced. Most of these additional decorative elements were of the same size and design, suggesting that they were likely standard Canal Company additions. While most of the houses had similar footprints when first constructed, each developed its own individuality fostered by its location as well as later additions and changes made by successive occupants. Eventually 66 of these houses, 15 lock houses and 51 bridge houses, would be built, or acquired, to serve the needs of this transportation corridor. Today 19 of those survive along the canal today including the one at Port Mercer.
The Port Mercer bridge tender house is typical of the basic clapboard-style residence that was built along the canal. This home is two-storied with a gable roof and one central chimney. Its entrance door and porch are located on the gable, or side façade of the structure. It has four interior rooms with two on the first floor and two above on the second floor with an enclosed side stairway and cooking fireplace initially in the basement. Like other canal houses along the D&R, a modern and more convenient lean-to kitchen was added to the house early in the 20th century. Of this style bridge house, seven examples survive.
Bridge Tending at Port Mercer
The D&R Canal Company provided bridge and/or lock houses to the tenders in its employ as part of their wages. These homes served as their primary residence. Although modest in size, they were often home to large families. Such was the case for the last bridge tender assigned at Port Mercer. John Arrowsmith (from a local farm family and the original owners of what would become the Marchesi farm in the 20th century) took the bridge tender position around 1911 where he, his wife Anna Cubberly and six children took up residence in the humble canal house. By 1913 two more additions were added to the already large family bringing the total to eight children – five sons and three daughters (Fannie, Raymond, Carrie, Walter, George, Clark, William and Ethel)! Although space was at a premium, daughter Carrie (born in 1899) remembered in the May 1981 edition of the Princeton Recollector that “The years we spent at the bridge tender’s house were the happiest days of our lives.” In the same edition brother George reminisced:
“Havin’ a big family, y’know, we had a lot of fun with the old canal. In the summertime, us boys used to pitch a tent down there. Then we’d have war up there, and we’d swim, and we had boats that we’d float down the canal. In the wintertime, we could always skate on the canal.”
Likewise, oldest brother Raymond remembered in an oral interview recorded on July 18, 1976 that as a boy "I played all along the canal; I've stayed along the canal; we swam in the canal; we had boats, and we rowed up and down the canal, and we canoed up and down the canal."
Aside from his duties operating and maintaining the swing bridge, John Arrowsmith assisted the boatman and took pride in the home. According to daughter Carrie, he kept the grass trimmed, cultivated a vegetable garden and planted many flowers around the house. As she recalled:
“In his position as bridge tender father was good to all of those passing the canal, helping them with the ropes and to tie up to the posts provided for this. He planted lots of flowers (he loved flowers) on the banks and kept the grass well-trimmed and cut. He always bought flower plants and planted a nice flower bed for my mother up near the house. He bordered it with bricks and white-washed the bricks.”
Son Raymond remembered the vegetable gardens:
"We were pretty self-sufficient people. We had a great big garden down along the canal. And, we had a couple of cows and actually we had a horse, and we raised food we wanted to eat; we raised beans and corn and potatoes, and all those sorts of things. You'd dried the things and put''em in the ground and covered 'em up in the winter time."
George recalled his father’s bridge tending duties:
“My father took care of the bridge. They would blow a horn. . .he was there, he would know when to open it. They used to have these conch shell horns, for the towboats. Of course, if they had steamboats, then they could blow a whistle.”
Because boat traffic sometimes continued after dark, John stayed in the bridge tender's station as Raymond explained:
"My father always slept in the little shanty out there, right by where this crank was where you turn the bridge; there was a shanty there where this crank was. He had a cot in there and this little stove and he used to stay out there, and he would sleep out there. I slept out there many nights."
John, and his sons, also earned extra money by working on the nearby Updike and Gordon farms. While he and the boys were gone on those days, the bridge tending duties were handled by any family members who were on hand to pitch in which included Anna and the children. As George recalled: “During the daytime, my father would have jobs other places, and us kids would open the bridge.”
According to brother Raymond:
"My father worked almost always in the daytime. He worked on the farms around there or he did lots of things for all kinds of people and either my mother, or one of the kids, would turn the bridge."
But living adjacent to the waterway could also prove dangerous to a family with small children. The Arrowsmiths lost their youngest son William in 1915 when he was playing too close to the edge, fell in and drowned. George Arrowsmith recalled the sad incident:
“William drowned in the canal there, right by the bridge. That was a trying time for the family. He was missing. We looked and looked and looked and tried to find him and couldn’t find him. My father said he had a dream that night that he was on a sandbar. There’s a drain that comes all the way down along the Quakerbridge Road that empties in the canal right there at the bridge. And he had a dream that William was drowned and was found out on the sandbar. He went out in the morning and dove down in there and that’s where he was."
Although the family searched frantically for the young boy hoping he was only missing, those hopes were dashed when his lifeless body was retrieved from the canal. William’s funeral was held in the bridge house. This event must have been a crushing heartache to both John and Anna but it wouldn’t be the only child who preceded their own deaths. Son Walter died in 1926 while on duty as a police officer of injuries sustained in a motor vehicle accident and daughter Ethel passed in 1935; both were in the early 20s.
While the Arrowsmiths were the last family to reside in the bridge house at Port Mercer, they followed a line of others who were assigned to the location. Although the identification of the preceding bridge tenders at Port Mercer has not yet been thoroughly researched and validated, the records reveal the names of a few potential candidates including Daniel Howell, William Foreman, William Gordon, Caleb Oliver and Ambrose Smith.
The Bridge Tender’s House After the Canal Closes
When the canal closed in 1932 the Arrowsmiths continued to reside in the bridge house as tenants via a signed lease with the Pennsylvania Railroad; they paid $1/year. In 1936 ownership of the canal and all its properties, including the bridge and lock houses, were transferred from the Pennsylvania Railroad to the State of New Jersey. Families such as the Arrowsmiths were permitted to continue their residency in many of the former bridge and lock houses for minimal rent. While John and Anna were alive, they continued to pay a minimal yearly rental fee to reside at the Port Mercer Canal House. Upon their passing - John in 1939 and Anna in 1943 – their daughter Carrie took over the lease with an increased rental payment starting at $10/month.
Carrie Arrowsmith never married and continued to live at the Port Mercer Canal House until November 1965; her final rent to the NJ Department of Conservation and Economic Development, Bureau of Water Supply had been raised to $30/month a few months earlier. Eventually she took up residence at the Eastern Star Home in Bridgewater along with her older sister Fannie. She and sister Fannie lived long lives; Carrie passed in 1988 and her sister Fannie in 1991.
After Carrie Arrowsmith left the bridge house, it was soon occupied by employees of what would become today’s New Jersey Water Supply Authority (NJWSA) – the agency tasked to manage the canal as a water supply for the state (previously the Bureau of Water Supply and part of the Department of Conservation and Economic Development – the precursor to the current Division of Parks and Forestry). Many of the surviving canal houses became NJWSA employee housing for a time until management of many surviving canal properties were transferred over to the Division of Parks and Forestry after the official creation of the D&R Canal State Park in 1974. The Port Mercer Bridge Tender's House was among them.
In 1975 the Lawrence Historical Society was founded and they quickly identified several projects to focus on for their first preservation and restoration efforts – The Princessville Inn that stood on Provinceline Road, The Brearley House on Meadow Road off Princeton Pike and the Port Mercer Bridge Tender’s House. With a management arrangement with New Jersey State Parks in place, the Lawrence Historical Society began restoration and preservation work on the bridge tender’s house in 1978 and it has been maintained as a historic site by the group ever since.
THE STORY OF PORT MERCER
What's In A Name?
This small hamlet, located in Lawrence Township, developed after the opening of the Delaware and Raritan Canal in 1834. Prior to the canal’s construction, the majority of settlement in this area of the township consisted of farmland that was further east and clustered at Clarksville along the Trenton-New Brunswick Turnpike or “Brunswick Pike” (Route 1 today). Families such as Clark, Gordon, Applegate, Phillips, Arrowsmith and Forman owned homes and farms in close proximity to the Brunswick Pike. The opening of the canal nearby presented an alternative transportation connection and an economic opportunity; it wasn’t long before Alfred Applegate opened a store at the current bridge crossing across from the new canal bridge house (later owners would be John A. Crater and Charles Mather). By the 1850s this small canal hamlet boasted a cluster of homes, a store, post office, inn, steam-powered saw mill, coal yard and a turning / delivery basin,.
It was the basin that inspired the name “Port Mercer.” This loading / delivery area provided a direct transportation and commodity connection to larger markets at Trenton and New Brunswick and, by extension, Philadelphia and New York City as if it were a bustling seaport servicing a large metropolis. Although modest in size, it did provide a location for the delivery of coal, stone lime, wood and manufactured goods of all kinds to the small cluster of residents, nearby Clarksville and the adjacent communities and farms. In the 1981 edition of the Princeton Recollector George Arrowsmith, son of the last bridge tender at Port Mercer, recalled deliveries to the basin:
There was a lot of activity…all day long, sometimes. The boats used to have a place down on that road as you go parallel to the canal. They had this big pole up with a big boom on; used to go out and lower the bucket into the boat and taken the line out and pile it up in a pile there. I guess it was all stone lime, them days. And then the farmers would come there with their wagons and load up the lime. At Mather’s, coal boats used to unload there. People would come there to get their winter coal.”
Perhaps more important, the basin also offered a waterway connection to ship local produce, grains and even livestock from the thriving local farms and hinterland. In this way it was, for all intents and purposes, “a port” for the hamlet and nearby farms. The small village took the name “Port Mercer” after the fallen Revolutionary War hero General Hugh Mercer who died from wounds sustained at the Battle of Princeton a few miles north along the Princeton Pike.
As the traffic on the canal increased so too did commerce and activity around and south of the Port Mercer basin with the addition of a coal yard, saw mill, lime kiln and mule barn. But as traffic along the canal waned late in the 19th century into the 20th, so too did this buzz of economic activity and the livelihoods that accompanied it. The canal finally closed in 1932 and the store by the canal – established over 100 years earlier – was torn down in the 1940s. The Inn next door, which once accommodated and serviced canal workers and travelers, had long since been converted to a residence by Richard Cook in the 19th century. Today with only a small cluster of historic homes surviving, there is little indication of the commercial activity that once took place here. Only the name – Port Mercer – hints at that story.
A Swing Bridge and House at Port Mercer
As was the case for all roads intersecting with the new canal, a swing bridge was needed to carry the roadway over the new waterway. Such was the case where the construction of the canal intersected with Provinceline Road at what would become Port Mercer in Lawrence & West Windsor Townships. A bridge house was constructed in 1833-34 for the original alignment of the road but then abandoned only a few years later in the early 1840s when the road was altered. A second bridge house – the one that survives at the location today – was built to accommodate the new crossing. In the early 1980s longtime resident Lee Marchesi recalled hearing older area residents talk of another bridge house that stood on the dirt road along the berm side of the canal south of the current house. Indeed, a second structure appears on the 1875 Everts and Stewart map of Mercer County south of the “Bridge House” and labeled as “Canal Co.” lending some validation to the story. If it was the first bridge house, it evidently survived at that location through much of the 19th century and was remembered by residents in the early 20th century. Although its use remains unclear, locals referred to it as “the spring house.” By the 20th century the structure likely fell into disrepair and was eventually removed.
Standard canal houses – both lock and bridge houses – on the D&R Canal were small, two-story structures typical of modest homes in New Jersey in the first half of 19th century. Initially these houses were simple, unadorned and painted white. By the latter half of the 19th century, doors and window frames on some were given a darker color, and porches, shutters and decorative brackets were introduced. Most of these additional decorative elements were of the same size and design, suggesting that they were likely standard Canal Company additions. While most of the houses had similar footprints when first constructed, each developed its own individuality fostered by its location as well as later additions and changes made by successive occupants. Eventually 66 of these houses, 15 lock houses and 51 bridge houses, would be built, or acquired, to serve the needs of this transportation corridor. Today 19 of those survive along the canal today including the one at Port Mercer.
The Port Mercer bridge tender house is typical of the basic clapboard-style residence that was built along the canal. This home is two-storied with a gable roof and one central chimney. Its entrance door and porch are located on the gable, or side façade of the structure. It has four interior rooms with two on the first floor and two above on the second floor with an enclosed side stairway and cooking fireplace initially in the basement. Like other canal houses along the D&R, a modern and more convenient lean-to kitchen was added to the house early in the 20th century. Of this style bridge house, seven examples survive.
Bridge Tending at Port Mercer
The D&R Canal Company provided bridge and/or lock houses to the tenders in its employ as part of their wages. These homes served as their primary residence. Although modest in size, they were often home to large families. Such was the case for the last bridge tender assigned at Port Mercer. John Arrowsmith (from a local farm family and the original owners of what would become the Marchesi farm in the 20th century) took the bridge tender position around 1911 where he, his wife Anna Cubberly and six children took up residence in the humble canal house. By 1913 two more additions were added to the already large family bringing the total to eight children – five sons and three daughters (Fannie, Raymond, Carrie, Walter, George, Clark, William and Ethel)! Although space was at a premium, daughter Carrie (born in 1899) remembered in the May 1981 edition of the Princeton Recollector that “The years we spent at the bridge tender’s house were the happiest days of our lives.” In the same edition brother George reminisced:
“Havin’ a big family, y’know, we had a lot of fun with the old canal. In the summertime, us boys used to pitch a tent down there. Then we’d have war up there, and we’d swim, and we had boats that we’d float down the canal. In the wintertime, we could always skate on the canal.”
Likewise, oldest brother Raymond remembered in an oral interview recorded on July 18, 1976 that as a boy "I played all along the canal; I've stayed along the canal; we swam in the canal; we had boats, and we rowed up and down the canal, and we canoed up and down the canal."
Aside from his duties operating and maintaining the swing bridge, John Arrowsmith assisted the boatman and took pride in the home. According to daughter Carrie, he kept the grass trimmed, cultivated a vegetable garden and planted many flowers around the house. As she recalled:
“In his position as bridge tender father was good to all of those passing the canal, helping them with the ropes and to tie up to the posts provided for this. He planted lots of flowers (he loved flowers) on the banks and kept the grass well-trimmed and cut. He always bought flower plants and planted a nice flower bed for my mother up near the house. He bordered it with bricks and white-washed the bricks.”
Son Raymond remembered the vegetable gardens:
"We were pretty self-sufficient people. We had a great big garden down along the canal. And, we had a couple of cows and actually we had a horse, and we raised food we wanted to eat; we raised beans and corn and potatoes, and all those sorts of things. You'd dried the things and put''em in the ground and covered 'em up in the winter time."
George recalled his father’s bridge tending duties:
“My father took care of the bridge. They would blow a horn. . .he was there, he would know when to open it. They used to have these conch shell horns, for the towboats. Of course, if they had steamboats, then they could blow a whistle.”
Because boat traffic sometimes continued after dark, John stayed in the bridge tender's station as Raymond explained:
"My father always slept in the little shanty out there, right by where this crank was where you turn the bridge; there was a shanty there where this crank was. He had a cot in there and this little stove and he used to stay out there, and he would sleep out there. I slept out there many nights."
John, and his sons, also earned extra money by working on the nearby Updike and Gordon farms. While he and the boys were gone on those days, the bridge tending duties were handled by any family members who were on hand to pitch in which included Anna and the children. As George recalled: “During the daytime, my father would have jobs other places, and us kids would open the bridge.”
According to brother Raymond:
"My father worked almost always in the daytime. He worked on the farms around there or he did lots of things for all kinds of people and either my mother, or one of the kids, would turn the bridge."
But living adjacent to the waterway could also prove dangerous to a family with small children. The Arrowsmiths lost their youngest son William in 1915 when he was playing too close to the edge, fell in and drowned. George Arrowsmith recalled the sad incident:
“William drowned in the canal there, right by the bridge. That was a trying time for the family. He was missing. We looked and looked and looked and tried to find him and couldn’t find him. My father said he had a dream that night that he was on a sandbar. There’s a drain that comes all the way down along the Quakerbridge Road that empties in the canal right there at the bridge. And he had a dream that William was drowned and was found out on the sandbar. He went out in the morning and dove down in there and that’s where he was."
Although the family searched frantically for the young boy hoping he was only missing, those hopes were dashed when his lifeless body was retrieved from the canal. William’s funeral was held in the bridge house. This event must have been a crushing heartache to both John and Anna but it wouldn’t be the only child who preceded their own deaths. Son Walter died in 1926 while on duty as a police officer of injuries sustained in a motor vehicle accident and daughter Ethel passed in 1935; both were in the early 20s.
While the Arrowsmiths were the last family to reside in the bridge house at Port Mercer, they followed a line of others who were assigned to the location. Although the identification of the preceding bridge tenders at Port Mercer has not yet been thoroughly researched and validated, the records reveal the names of a few potential candidates including Daniel Howell, William Foreman, William Gordon, Caleb Oliver and Ambrose Smith.
The Bridge Tender’s House After the Canal Closes
When the canal closed in 1932 the Arrowsmiths continued to reside in the bridge house as tenants via a signed lease with the Pennsylvania Railroad; they paid $1/year. In 1936 ownership of the canal and all its properties, including the bridge and lock houses, were transferred from the Pennsylvania Railroad to the State of New Jersey. Families such as the Arrowsmiths were permitted to continue their residency in many of the former bridge and lock houses for minimal rent. While John and Anna were alive, they continued to pay a minimal yearly rental fee to reside at the Port Mercer Canal House. Upon their passing - John in 1939 and Anna in 1943 – their daughter Carrie took over the lease with an increased rental payment starting at $10/month.
Carrie Arrowsmith never married and continued to live at the Port Mercer Canal House until November 1965; her final rent to the NJ Department of Conservation and Economic Development, Bureau of Water Supply had been raised to $30/month a few months earlier. Eventually she took up residence at the Eastern Star Home in Bridgewater along with her older sister Fannie. She and sister Fannie lived long lives; Carrie passed in 1988 and her sister Fannie in 1991.
After Carrie Arrowsmith left the bridge house, it was soon occupied by employees of what would become today’s New Jersey Water Supply Authority (NJWSA) – the agency tasked to manage the canal as a water supply for the state (previously the Bureau of Water Supply and part of the Department of Conservation and Economic Development – the precursor to the current Division of Parks and Forestry). Many of the surviving canal houses became NJWSA employee housing for a time until management of many surviving canal properties were transferred over to the Division of Parks and Forestry after the official creation of the D&R Canal State Park in 1974. The Port Mercer Bridge Tender's House was among them.
In 1975 the Lawrence Historical Society was founded and they quickly identified several projects to focus on for their first preservation and restoration efforts – The Princessville Inn that stood on Provinceline Road, The Brearley House on Meadow Road off Princeton Pike and the Port Mercer Bridge Tender’s House. With a management arrangement with New Jersey State Parks in place, the Lawrence Historical Society began restoration and preservation work on the bridge tender’s house in 1978 and it has been maintained as a historic site by the group ever since.
Blackwells Mills
Franklin Township, New Jersey
The bridge tender's house (occupied by the last bridge tender into the early 1970s), wooden bridge and mill site are reminders of the area's active 19th century past. Several annual events are held at the canal house (contact the Blackwell's Mills Canal House Association for the current schedule of events). This historic site provides access to the canal, towpath and river. Parking lot for access to the Six Mile Run trails is located nearby.
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Bulls Island
Route 29, Stockton, New Jersey
Bulls Island Recreation Area facilities include a park office with year-round restroom facilities, picnic area, boat launches into Delaware River and the D&R Canal and access to the Park’s linear multi-use trail along the river and Route 29. A pedestrian bridge over the river provides a connection to the Delaware Canal State Park in Pennsylvania and river loop trail. In addition to these amenities visitors can explore the Bulls Island Natural Area by hiking a mile-long trail leading through a lowland floodplain forest where ostrich ferns, sycamores and stately tulip poplars can be seen.
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Griggstown
Franklin Township, New Jersey
The wooden bridge over the canal, the mill/mule tender's barracks building, the bridge tender's house and station and the site of the former Griggstown mill are situated at this historic section of the canal. Canoes can be rented at a private canoe rental concession on the canal. The Griggstown lock (lock #9) is less than a mile south along the towpath.
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Kingston
South Brunswick Township, New Jersey
One of the more heavily visited spots along the canal. Here the visitor can see lock #8, the lock/bridge tender's house and station, and a 19th century mill site that are all located along Route 27. This site also provides access to two miles of towpath along scenic Carnegie Lake.
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Port Mercer
Lawrence Township, New Jersey
Located behind the Mercer Mall along Quaker Road adjacent to the canal in Lawrence Township is what remains of the small community of Port Mercer. Here visitors will find the bridge tender's house that was once home to the canal company employee who operated the swing bridge at this location. Along with the historic bridge house and stationary wood bridge crossing, only a handful of 19th century homes remain at this location.
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Learn more about the D&R Canal Swing Bridges
Prallsville Mills
Route 29, Stockton New Jersey
This 19th century mill complex, located along the feeder canal in the small town of Stockton, contains a sawmill, gristmill and linseed oil mill. The site is leased and operated by the Delaware River Mill Society, which sponsors concerts and other programs on site.
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Six Mile Run Reservoir Site
Somerset, New Jersey
Nestled in central New Jersey, the Six Mile Run Reservoir Site provides an preserved area (3,037 acres of land) for the public to enjoy the splendor of nature. This oasis of undeveloped land offers several designated trails to hike, bike, horseback ride, bird watch and areas to hunt.
The Six Mile Run Reservoir Site, located in Franklin Township, Somerset County, has a rich cultural history. Today, you can still find 18th century farmhouses, Dutch-framed granaries and barns that tell the story of the first Dutch settlers who inhabited the area in the 1700s. Farming has always played a significant part here, providing agricultural goods as well as a sense of rural charm. Currently, much of the land is leased to the public for agricultural purposes. The remaining acreage consists of forested lands and open fields creating a habitat for a variety of plants and wildlife.
The land was first acquired by the State of New Jersey in 1970 by the NJ Department of Environmental Protection, Division of Water Resources as a future reservoir site to serve as both a water supply and a recreational area for the public. In 1993 alternative water supply sources were discovered and the administration of the property was transferred to the New Jersey Division of Parks and Forestry.
Six Mile Run Reservoir Site has remained an undeveloped corner of central New Jersey offering vistas of farm fields and forests in an ever-expanding community. We encourage you to take the opportunity to experience the beauty of this unique area.
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